Your Champagne Primer

Have you ever wondered why the word champagne is only used on bottles of sparkling wine from France?

Appellation my friend, its just plain geographic location. The correct term is Appellation d’origine contrôlée which translates as “controlled term of origin.” It’s the certification for certain French geographical indications for wines, cheeses, butters, and other agricultural products, all under the auspices of the French government bureau Institut National des Appellations d’ Origine (INAO). If the grapes are grown and the wine produced in Champagne – then it is indeed Champagne.

Genuine Champagne is only from the very definitive Champagne region, 90 miles northeast of Paris. Everything else grown and produced throughout the world is only sparkling wine. Champagne region producers rightly manage the branding of the Champagne appellation name and take on all comers outside the region who try to usurp the Champagne name.

In Champagne, grapes have been grown for over 2,000 years. But as for champagne production; the year 1668 brought the development of cork to capture fermentation gases and became the golden opportunity to create the spectacular. To the surprise of Benedictine monk Dom Perignon at the Abbey of Hautvillers near Epernay who developed production techniques still in use today; upon tasting his first glass has been attributed the response ”. . . come quickly. I am tasting stars!”

Worldwide perception of champagne is based on its reputation as a luxury product. But champagne is in no way exclusive. Cobbler or king, there is a bottle for every price point. Upwards of 300 million bottles of genuine Champagne are produced annually, and the industry is pressing the French government to expand the 71,000-acre Champagne region to meet the swelling demand from newly affluent markets in Eastern Europe and Asia. According to the New York Times, if this comes to pass, the land value in the region will escalate over 200%. (Frank Prial, Dec. 5, 2007)

According to Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, there are 19,000 grape growers in Champagne, of whom about 5,000 sell champagne under their own name; and there are more than 12,500 Champagne brands. Unfamiliar to most of us, these new brands of champagne have appeared in the mass markets. And the reason?. Some producers that have previously made champagne for the “big names” in the past are now selling under their under own labels. A bit of detective work and a few questions of your sommelier or wine merchant will bring you some surprising results and a new favorite for a birthday celebration, new job or wedding toast. Remember to chill champagne no more than two hours before drinking to preserve flavor. Serve between 40-50 degrees F. And here is a great party trick; chill a lesser brand colder than the better bottles and it will taste better. Never chill the best champagne beyond 45 degrees F.