Culinary Traveler by Kurt Winner
Photos by Kurt Winner
Overlooking Lake Geneva with views across to France, Lausanne is a simmering city made up of many town squares creating a complex layout. Because of it’s hillside location the squares or “meeting places” are on different levels. To illustrate the point, the subway station we used was on a slope. It was a strange to walk into a building that was perfectly vertical and horizontal, but the platform and track tipped on it’s side so that the train could reach the next stop on grade. Further, directions given are also very “Lausanne specific.” Our tour guide told our large group that if we all did not fit into the subway car, we were to “exit at the station where the church bells would ring.” Each station has it’s own unique sound or chime so you know your location. There are birds, horses and other sounds. Our stop was located near the ancient church on top of a cobblestone hill in the middle of the city; hence the bells. lausanne-tourisme.ch
After our visit to the cathedral it was time to enjoy a meal. We wanted traditional fondue. Fondue in French means “melting” and we visited one of the best, also one of the oldest restaurants in Lausanne, the Café Du Grutli: cafedugruetli.ch.
Founded in 1849 the specialty of the house is fondue, the real deal Swiss Fondue made from Le Gruyere cheese, white wine and a touch of garlic and nutmeg. To be honest I wasn’t all that excited to eat fondue. After all we have all tried it in the States and it was good but Americanized and domestic cheese was used which takes so much away from the flavor. This fondue was a revelation; delicate, sweet and clinging to the bread icreating tiny pools of cheese.
The fondue at the Du Grutli has elevated the simple ingredients to a culinary an art form. This is the source of fondue. More than 150 years of perfecting this dish have paid off in every way. So for these cold winter nights and perhaps even a holiday get-together I offer you this simple, filling traditional recipe.
Fondue Lausanne style
1lb cave aged Le Gruyere, this must be imported from Switzerland, Costco carries it.
3 Tbsp. flour
1 clove of garlic, split
2 cups dry white wine
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
3 Tbsp. kirsch (cherry liqueur)
¼ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1-2 loaves day old bread cut into 1 inch cubes, use artisan for the best flavors.
Mix the grated cheese with the flour. Rub a fondue pot with the garlic clove. Now pour the wine into the pot and place over medium heat until air bubbles rise to the surface. Add the lemon juice, next the cheese in small amounts stirring constantly to prevent it from burning. Now add the kirsch, nutmeg and pepper, stir the mix until fully blended. Place the pot over low a flame.
Note: When you dip your bread, swirl it in a figure eight touching the bottom of the pot. This is how the Swiss do it, the figure eight is similar to the cross pattern of the Swiss flag. Be sure to share this with some of your closest friends and family.
Fondue sets can be found at World Market, and in a pinch they also carry prepared fondue from Switzerland, along with Lindt Swiss Chocolate, nutmeg, and imported black pepper for this delicious dish. worldmarket.com